Classroom Instruction – 2 /1/2 hours
1.History and development of unique world-wide gardening methods.
2.Six Laws of Plant Growth – DVD Presentation of Sustainable Gardening.
3.Instruction in “The poor man’s hydroponic method” of gardening.
4.Instruction in “The best of organic” method of gardening.
5.When (based on ADLF), how, and where to plant all 4 types of vegetables.
6.Extend your growing season both Spring and Fall – Protecting your plants.
7.Organic vs chemical feeding of plants – the best of both worlds.
8.Heirloom vs hybrid seeds and how to avoid GMO seeds.
9.Growing your own seedlings for healthier plants early and late.
10.Gardening in the soil – “A great garden in any soil, with no soil amendments.”
11.Tools and techniques for eliminating weeds from the garden.
12. Video on creating and caring for a soil-bed garden with only ½ the water.
13.Successful gardening in containers of any size – Introduction to Grow-Boxes.
14.Controlling bugs, diseases, and animal pests.
15.Vertical growing to increase yields and reduce losses from pests and diseases.
16.In-The-Garden greenhouse for protection from both cold and heat.
In The Garden – Hands-on Workshop – 2-4 hours
1.Introduction to essential gardening tools and equipment.
2.Demonstrate proper soil preparation including elimination of weeds.
3.Plan and organize garden space to maximize sunshine & water availability.
4.Create a working soil-bed garden with raised, ridged beds.
5.Build Grow-Boxes (containers) and fill with soil mix materials.
6.Apply balanced natural mineral nutrients to the soils for a healthy garden.
7.Build T-Frames, install and demonstrate their use in growing vertically.
8.Discuss and demonstrate planting and covering seeds in all types of soil.
9.Teach and demonstrate planting seedlings in soil and container gardens.
10.Demonstrate watering methods for maximum results with minimum water.
11.Build and demonstrate ease of use and other benefits of automated watering.
12.Daily and weekly care and feeding of your garden for maximum yield.
13.Build and Demonstrate use of mini-greenhouses to extend growing season.
14.Demonstrate greenhouse-in-the garden to protect plants from heat & cold.
Food For Everyone Foundation
4348 Spring Brook Lane
Gardendale, Alabama 35071
(205) 607-6210 - (801) 915-4449
www.foodforeveryone.org - jim@growfood.com
Showing posts with label Food for everyone foundation. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Food for everyone foundation. Show all posts
Friday, January 28, 2011
Wednesday, August 11, 2010
My Mittleider garden 2010
Great year with my garden got the blight but planted early varieties of tomatoes got about 85% of the yields better then last year for sure, please be sure to check out this lens and pass it on.
Tuesday, April 27, 2010
Phase two Mittleider garden setup
My garden is rocks rocks and more rocks the Mittleider method allows me to grow in this "soil"
Wednesday, February 17, 2010
Our top 25 lenses on Squidoo
Examples of Lenses we have done for the Food for Everyone Foundation
Homesteading on Squidoo
Hydro Power
Cobbhouse on Squidoo
Spiritual Stories
Gardening NonProfit
Intensive gardening on Squidoo
Build a Mini Greenhouse
Sustainable vegetable gardening
Heirloom seeds on Squidoo
Start your own gardening business
Organic gardening
My Best information
Change the World
Global humanitarian Relief
Sturgis Motorcycle Rally
Help Non-Profits online
Food for Everyone Foundation Squidoo Group
How to start plants using growlights
Dr. Jacob Mittleider
How to preserve vegetables
How to build a gardening Tframe
How to feed your plants correctly
How to build a Hotbeds for seedlings
Gardening Non-Profit affiliate program
Homesteading on Squidoo
Hydro Power
Cobbhouse on Squidoo
Spiritual Stories
Gardening NonProfit
Intensive gardening on
Squidoo
Build a Mini Greenhouse
Sustainable vegetable
gardening
Heirloom seeds on Squidoo
Start your own gardening
business
Squidoo
gardening
business
Saturday, August 1, 2009
Gardening seminars
Great news Jim is giving gardening seminars much more info to follow, we are also shooting videos of the presentations and will be uploading them to Youtube,
Wednesday, June 3, 2009
Six factors to control in your garden
Six Elements to Control PP Presentation – Narration
Source Food for Everyone Foundation
1. The Mittleider Method of gardening is sometimes called “The Poor Man’s Hydroponic Method” – and for good reason. (Hydroponic growers are able to consistently control all elements of the growing process, and therefore get maximum yields.)
In the next few minutes you will learn how to control the 6 elements that are necessary to healthy and productive plant growth.
2. The large commercial hydroponic growers do it best, and as a consequence they are able to produce as much as 330 TONS per acre!
However, in order to do that hydroponic growers must invest about $1,000,000 per acre in buildings and equipment, and in addition they have very high labor costs.
3. Our garden yields approach the hydroponic growers, and yet the investment is a TINY FRACTION of the typical hydroponic grower’s.
That’s why the label “The Poor Man’s Hydroponic Method” fits – anyone can do it. And some call this method “The best of organic” also! You’ll learn why as we go along.
Using the principles and procedures illustrated here you can have a GREAT garden in ANY soil – or in NO soil – in virtually any climate. You discover that soil and climate differences are NOT major problems.
You’ll learn to control the 6 basic physical conditions necessary for healthy plant growth.
(By borrowing hydroponic growers’ principles and procedures, and adapting them to the small family gardener – we increase the quality and quantity of our garden yields MANY times as compared to traditional methods.)
4. The most important factor to control is LIGHT – for reasons that should be obvious.
Light is life! And nowhere is it more obvious than in the world of plants, where 95% of the structure is the result of that marvelous miracle called photosynthesis.
Using just the three basic elements carbon, oxygen, and hydrogen plants create CARB-O-HYDRATES.
(Number one in importance is providing maximum sunlight – for as long as possible. In the far North plants go crazy in the summer with 18 and 20 hours of sunlight!)
5. Therefore you must AVOID planting where there is shade – from trees, houses, walls, shrubs, etc.
Even tall vegetable plants will produce shade, unless you plant tall varieties to the North OR East of short ones.
(Any fruit-bearing plant MUST have direct sunlight for at least 6 hours per day, and 10 is much better. In this picture, tall plants – tomatoes and corn - were planted East AND West of the short peppers. Even with wide aisles the peppers suffered some for lack of sunlight.)
Notice the row of short pepper plants between rows of tall plants. The peppers produced very little, because they lacked direct sunlight many hours of the day.
6. A plant can even shade itself more than is healthy! Remove sucker stems from climbing plants, and prune excess leaves – to allow light everywhere.
(Crop yields can be increased significantly by pruning. For example, removing sucker stems on tomatoes is important to maximize crop yield.)
7. The second element to control is TEMPERATURE. Plants thrive in a rather narrow temperature range, and this is especially true when they first germinate.
Sustained temperatures above 70 degrees Fahrenheit are essential for fast germination and high germination rates. Even 10 degrees colder will greatly slow the germination time and reduce the number of plants.
(Is your garden too small for a greenhouse? Start your plants on a heating pad in your house. Somewhere warm is essential.)
8. Even after germination young plants need favorable temperatures to thrive. In early Spring this may require some protection – and sometimes even a little supplemental heat – whether in the greenhouse or in the garden.
(A small seed-house like Dr. Jacob Mittleider’s can grow hundreds of healthy seedlings. Mini-greenhouses right in the garden help to keep them warm on cold nights.)
Covering your plants with plastic as illustrated helps warm the soil and eliminate cold winds, and on cold nights even the heat from a couple of light bulbs can be enough to prevent freezing.
9. In this way – by covering your plants and protecting from frost – you can extend your growing season by up to 4 weeks in both Spring and Fall.
(The arched frames in back can easily be covered to grow plants clear into December in Utah. T-Frames work just as well as those A-Frames.)
10. The third element to control is AIR. Remember that plants receive carbon, oxygen, and hydrogen from the air. However, they access those things mainly through their ROOTS.
Therefore, good drainage is necessary. Why?
(To use this area as a successful garden just required drain ditches to remove the standing water.)
11. You must avoid flooding the roots for any extended length of time. Even a few hours under water can kill your plants.
(Soil that is soaked with or covered with water drives out the soil air. Roots get oxygen from the air, not the water, so the plant can drown in a fairly short time.)
So, to insure your plant roots receive the soil-air they must have, never plant in a low spot with poor drainage.
12. We solve the drainage problem by RAISING the planting area of our soil-beds slightly higher than the surrounding aisles.
13. The fourth element to control is WATER.
Water obviously should be clean, and it MUST be non-toxic. Any concentration of harmful elements, such as chemicals from a nearby industrial plant, can quickly kill your plants.
How much and how often do you need to water?
Understand that “a plant is a continuous water pipe, from the tip of the smallest root to the top of the highest leaf” - JRM.
And a plant is over 80% water!
Water should therefore ALWAYS be available to the plant roots. The soil should be MOIST but not completely WET. One inch daily is enough.
14. In addition to being slightly raised –
Your soil-beds should be LEVEL.
This avoids the loss of water; plus your seeds, small plants, and fertilizers are not washed out and lost.
(Do not plant until your beds are level. Much grief is avoided by following the procedures accurately.)
15. Level beds also ensure UNIFORM DISTRIBUTION of water and natural mineral fertilizers to all plants’ roots.
16. Even when watering almost every day we conserve water, using about ½ that of traditional methods.
This is because we only water the root-zone of the plants - about 17% of the garden area.
(No water is lost to run-off, nor wasted in the aisles. In Armenia village neighbors are AMAZED at how little water we use.)
17. Never water your garden by sprinkling – for 3 reasons:
Sprinkling encourages weed growth in the aisles and on the ridges;
It wastes a great deal of water through evaporation as well;
It promotes diseases, which thrive in a moist environment.
(On a hot day evaporation wastes up to ½ of the water when sprinkling is used. And even more than that is wasted on the aisles and ridges. Sprinklers may be needed for lawns, but they have no place in the vegetable garden!)
18. Four-inch-high ridges surrounding the planting area accomplish several things;
They define the bed aesthetically and afford some protection to small seedling plants;
They keep the water and fertilizers in the root zone of the plants.
19. Automating your watering will greatly increase the pleasure you receive from your garden.
It makes watering EASIER, FASTER, and more EFFICIENT!
(Many beds can be watered at the same time. 125 beds at the Utah Zoo garden are watered in only 60 minutes.)
20. Simple illustrated plans for automating your watering system are available in the Mittleider gardening books, and it’s free online at http://foodforeveryone.org/pdf/MGC_Chpt_16.pdf
(The main water pipe should be as large as your water source. Use threaded connections – NOT GLUED! Use Schedule 200 – NOT schedule 40 for watering pipes.)
21. The fifth element to control in your garden is your plants’ FOOD.
Besides the 3 elements plants receive FREE from the air there are 13 other elements that plants must have for food.
Most people know about the 3 MAJOR nutrients, nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, or N, P, & K.
However, 3 SECONDARY elements are used almost as much by plants as phosphorus, and these are calcium, sulfur, and magnesium.
In addition there are Micro-nutrients – also called Trace Elements - because plants use only small amounts of them. They include zinc, boron, manganese, iron, copper, chloride, and molybdenum.
People in the Mountain West can get these complete balanced plant foods pre-mixed.
WHEREVER YOU live simply get Micro-Nutrients from the website at www.growfood.com and mix with NPK and Epsom Salt according to instructions to have the complete balanced nutrient mix.
22. Plants require feeding in two ways, with two separate natural mineral nutrient mixes. They are called the Pre-Plant Mix and the Weekly Feed Mix, indicating how they are used.
Unless materials are water-soluble plants can’t get or use them. They receive their nourishment as water-soluble MINERALS through their ROOTS.
(WATER SOLUBLE is the key! Dirt often has most or even all the minerals in it, but it’s usually NOT water soluble – therefore it’s not available to your plants.)
How are we “The Best of Organic”? The nutritional value of manure and compost are unknown. We know what plants need and we supply exactly that – in balanced amounts.
And we supply small amounts weekly throughout the growing season – just as they are needed.
23. The sixth and final element we must control is COMPETITION. (And disease certainly competes to rob you of your crop! Beat the big four for sure success.)
Competition from weeds, bugs, and animals is usually fierce and constant.
And diseases are very difficult to control, and sometimes almost impossible to eliminate after they get established.
24. Eliminate all weeds! Success STARTS with a weed-free garden! (Starting right is all important! Don’t expect a great finish if your beginning is sloppy.)
“No amount of scratching after the crop is planted can overcome the ill effects of poor seed-bed preparation.” JRM
You must remove both annual and perennial weeds, and for perennials that includes the roots, rhizomes, and runners.
25. And after planting you must KEEP UP the weeding! (People often ask what our secret is to our weed-free gardens. It’s E & O Weeding – early and often! Get those weeds out of the END aisles also, or they’ll come into your beds! After beds are built, the 2-way hoe and rake are your main weeding tools.)
Be sure you remove the weeds every time from within the rows, on the ridges, AND in the aisles!
26. How do you eliminate bugs from your garden? Cultural practices that greatly reduce your risk include maintaining a weed-free DRY perimeter, aisles, weed-free beds, and keeping the garden free of mulch or other ground coverings.
(Rather than providing bug hotels throughout your garden, make them walk the Sahara Desert to get to lunch or dinner. Most won’t make it! Because of the above cultural practices, and growing HEALTHY, FAST-GROWING PLANTS, we RARELY have to resort to pesticides or herbicides.)
27. You must take POSITIVE and sometimes AGGRESSIVE steps to control and eliminate animal pests.
Those steps may include fencing, traps, baits, and/or netting.
(Deer and many smaller animals, as well as birds, will love the salad bar you provide if you don’t keep them out.)
28. DISEASE is the last thing you need to control, but not the least. It’s recently been discovered that healthy plants naturally resist disease. (Read about HIGH BRIX LEVELS. Your sustainable Mittleider-Method garden vegetables will have them!)
29. In addition to minimizing bugs, a dry periphery and aisles are inhospitable environments for diseases.
(Disease thrives in MOIST conditions. Keep everything possible DRY! This garden THRIVED in BLOW-SAND – in HOT Santa Clara, Utah.)
30. The best disease control is PREVENTION.
Pruning plants reduces those moist conditions diseases love, and provides light and air to ripen tasty fruit.
(These tomatoes were NOT pruned properly – Production suffered greatly, and they were subject to bugs and disease.)
31. Don’t give diseases OR bugs an easy path to your tender plants. Remove everything touching the ground.
32. Follow this recipe accurately and consistently for “a great garden in any soil, in any climate.”
THANK YOU!
Source Food for Everyone Foundation
1. The Mittleider Method of gardening is sometimes called “The Poor Man’s Hydroponic Method” – and for good reason. (Hydroponic growers are able to consistently control all elements of the growing process, and therefore get maximum yields.)
In the next few minutes you will learn how to control the 6 elements that are necessary to healthy and productive plant growth.
2. The large commercial hydroponic growers do it best, and as a consequence they are able to produce as much as 330 TONS per acre!
However, in order to do that hydroponic growers must invest about $1,000,000 per acre in buildings and equipment, and in addition they have very high labor costs.
3. Our garden yields approach the hydroponic growers, and yet the investment is a TINY FRACTION of the typical hydroponic grower’s.
That’s why the label “The Poor Man’s Hydroponic Method” fits – anyone can do it. And some call this method “The best of organic” also! You’ll learn why as we go along.
Using the principles and procedures illustrated here you can have a GREAT garden in ANY soil – or in NO soil – in virtually any climate. You discover that soil and climate differences are NOT major problems.
You’ll learn to control the 6 basic physical conditions necessary for healthy plant growth.
(By borrowing hydroponic growers’ principles and procedures, and adapting them to the small family gardener – we increase the quality and quantity of our garden yields MANY times as compared to traditional methods.)
4. The most important factor to control is LIGHT – for reasons that should be obvious.
Light is life! And nowhere is it more obvious than in the world of plants, where 95% of the structure is the result of that marvelous miracle called photosynthesis.
Using just the three basic elements carbon, oxygen, and hydrogen plants create CARB-O-HYDRATES.
(Number one in importance is providing maximum sunlight – for as long as possible. In the far North plants go crazy in the summer with 18 and 20 hours of sunlight!)
5. Therefore you must AVOID planting where there is shade – from trees, houses, walls, shrubs, etc.
Even tall vegetable plants will produce shade, unless you plant tall varieties to the North OR East of short ones.
(Any fruit-bearing plant MUST have direct sunlight for at least 6 hours per day, and 10 is much better. In this picture, tall plants – tomatoes and corn - were planted East AND West of the short peppers. Even with wide aisles the peppers suffered some for lack of sunlight.)
Notice the row of short pepper plants between rows of tall plants. The peppers produced very little, because they lacked direct sunlight many hours of the day.
6. A plant can even shade itself more than is healthy! Remove sucker stems from climbing plants, and prune excess leaves – to allow light everywhere.
(Crop yields can be increased significantly by pruning. For example, removing sucker stems on tomatoes is important to maximize crop yield.)
7. The second element to control is TEMPERATURE. Plants thrive in a rather narrow temperature range, and this is especially true when they first germinate.
Sustained temperatures above 70 degrees Fahrenheit are essential for fast germination and high germination rates. Even 10 degrees colder will greatly slow the germination time and reduce the number of plants.
(Is your garden too small for a greenhouse? Start your plants on a heating pad in your house. Somewhere warm is essential.)
8. Even after germination young plants need favorable temperatures to thrive. In early Spring this may require some protection – and sometimes even a little supplemental heat – whether in the greenhouse or in the garden.
(A small seed-house like Dr. Jacob Mittleider’s can grow hundreds of healthy seedlings. Mini-greenhouses right in the garden help to keep them warm on cold nights.)
Covering your plants with plastic as illustrated helps warm the soil and eliminate cold winds, and on cold nights even the heat from a couple of light bulbs can be enough to prevent freezing.
9. In this way – by covering your plants and protecting from frost – you can extend your growing season by up to 4 weeks in both Spring and Fall.
(The arched frames in back can easily be covered to grow plants clear into December in Utah. T-Frames work just as well as those A-Frames.)
10. The third element to control is AIR. Remember that plants receive carbon, oxygen, and hydrogen from the air. However, they access those things mainly through their ROOTS.
Therefore, good drainage is necessary. Why?
(To use this area as a successful garden just required drain ditches to remove the standing water.)
11. You must avoid flooding the roots for any extended length of time. Even a few hours under water can kill your plants.
(Soil that is soaked with or covered with water drives out the soil air. Roots get oxygen from the air, not the water, so the plant can drown in a fairly short time.)
So, to insure your plant roots receive the soil-air they must have, never plant in a low spot with poor drainage.
12. We solve the drainage problem by RAISING the planting area of our soil-beds slightly higher than the surrounding aisles.
13. The fourth element to control is WATER.
Water obviously should be clean, and it MUST be non-toxic. Any concentration of harmful elements, such as chemicals from a nearby industrial plant, can quickly kill your plants.
How much and how often do you need to water?
Understand that “a plant is a continuous water pipe, from the tip of the smallest root to the top of the highest leaf” - JRM.
And a plant is over 80% water!
Water should therefore ALWAYS be available to the plant roots. The soil should be MOIST but not completely WET. One inch daily is enough.
14. In addition to being slightly raised –
Your soil-beds should be LEVEL.
This avoids the loss of water; plus your seeds, small plants, and fertilizers are not washed out and lost.
(Do not plant until your beds are level. Much grief is avoided by following the procedures accurately.)
15. Level beds also ensure UNIFORM DISTRIBUTION of water and natural mineral fertilizers to all plants’ roots.
16. Even when watering almost every day we conserve water, using about ½ that of traditional methods.
This is because we only water the root-zone of the plants - about 17% of the garden area.
(No water is lost to run-off, nor wasted in the aisles. In Armenia village neighbors are AMAZED at how little water we use.)
17. Never water your garden by sprinkling – for 3 reasons:
Sprinkling encourages weed growth in the aisles and on the ridges;
It wastes a great deal of water through evaporation as well;
It promotes diseases, which thrive in a moist environment.
(On a hot day evaporation wastes up to ½ of the water when sprinkling is used. And even more than that is wasted on the aisles and ridges. Sprinklers may be needed for lawns, but they have no place in the vegetable garden!)
18. Four-inch-high ridges surrounding the planting area accomplish several things;
They define the bed aesthetically and afford some protection to small seedling plants;
They keep the water and fertilizers in the root zone of the plants.
19. Automating your watering will greatly increase the pleasure you receive from your garden.
It makes watering EASIER, FASTER, and more EFFICIENT!
(Many beds can be watered at the same time. 125 beds at the Utah Zoo garden are watered in only 60 minutes.)
20. Simple illustrated plans for automating your watering system are available in the Mittleider gardening books, and it’s free online at http://foodforeveryone.org/pdf/MGC_Chpt_16.pdf
(The main water pipe should be as large as your water source. Use threaded connections – NOT GLUED! Use Schedule 200 – NOT schedule 40 for watering pipes.)
21. The fifth element to control in your garden is your plants’ FOOD.
Besides the 3 elements plants receive FREE from the air there are 13 other elements that plants must have for food.
Most people know about the 3 MAJOR nutrients, nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, or N, P, & K.
However, 3 SECONDARY elements are used almost as much by plants as phosphorus, and these are calcium, sulfur, and magnesium.
In addition there are Micro-nutrients – also called Trace Elements - because plants use only small amounts of them. They include zinc, boron, manganese, iron, copper, chloride, and molybdenum.
People in the Mountain West can get these complete balanced plant foods pre-mixed.
WHEREVER YOU live simply get Micro-Nutrients from the website at www.growfood.com and mix with NPK and Epsom Salt according to instructions to have the complete balanced nutrient mix.
22. Plants require feeding in two ways, with two separate natural mineral nutrient mixes. They are called the Pre-Plant Mix and the Weekly Feed Mix, indicating how they are used.
Unless materials are water-soluble plants can’t get or use them. They receive their nourishment as water-soluble MINERALS through their ROOTS.
(WATER SOLUBLE is the key! Dirt often has most or even all the minerals in it, but it’s usually NOT water soluble – therefore it’s not available to your plants.)
How are we “The Best of Organic”? The nutritional value of manure and compost are unknown. We know what plants need and we supply exactly that – in balanced amounts.
And we supply small amounts weekly throughout the growing season – just as they are needed.
23. The sixth and final element we must control is COMPETITION. (And disease certainly competes to rob you of your crop! Beat the big four for sure success.)
Competition from weeds, bugs, and animals is usually fierce and constant.
And diseases are very difficult to control, and sometimes almost impossible to eliminate after they get established.
24. Eliminate all weeds! Success STARTS with a weed-free garden! (Starting right is all important! Don’t expect a great finish if your beginning is sloppy.)
“No amount of scratching after the crop is planted can overcome the ill effects of poor seed-bed preparation.” JRM
You must remove both annual and perennial weeds, and for perennials that includes the roots, rhizomes, and runners.
25. And after planting you must KEEP UP the weeding! (People often ask what our secret is to our weed-free gardens. It’s E & O Weeding – early and often! Get those weeds out of the END aisles also, or they’ll come into your beds! After beds are built, the 2-way hoe and rake are your main weeding tools.)
Be sure you remove the weeds every time from within the rows, on the ridges, AND in the aisles!
26. How do you eliminate bugs from your garden? Cultural practices that greatly reduce your risk include maintaining a weed-free DRY perimeter, aisles, weed-free beds, and keeping the garden free of mulch or other ground coverings.
(Rather than providing bug hotels throughout your garden, make them walk the Sahara Desert to get to lunch or dinner. Most won’t make it! Because of the above cultural practices, and growing HEALTHY, FAST-GROWING PLANTS, we RARELY have to resort to pesticides or herbicides.)
27. You must take POSITIVE and sometimes AGGRESSIVE steps to control and eliminate animal pests.
Those steps may include fencing, traps, baits, and/or netting.
(Deer and many smaller animals, as well as birds, will love the salad bar you provide if you don’t keep them out.)
28. DISEASE is the last thing you need to control, but not the least. It’s recently been discovered that healthy plants naturally resist disease. (Read about HIGH BRIX LEVELS. Your sustainable Mittleider-Method garden vegetables will have them!)
29. In addition to minimizing bugs, a dry periphery and aisles are inhospitable environments for diseases.
(Disease thrives in MOIST conditions. Keep everything possible DRY! This garden THRIVED in BLOW-SAND – in HOT Santa Clara, Utah.)
30. The best disease control is PREVENTION.
Pruning plants reduces those moist conditions diseases love, and provides light and air to ripen tasty fruit.
(These tomatoes were NOT pruned properly – Production suffered greatly, and they were subject to bugs and disease.)
31. Don’t give diseases OR bugs an easy path to your tender plants. Remove everything touching the ground.
32. Follow this recipe accurately and consistently for “a great garden in any soil, in any climate.”
THANK YOU!
Wednesday, May 20, 2009
Proper Use of and Timing for Applying Compost and Manure to the Garden
Author: Jim Kennard
Fall is the best time to put materials into your garden, because they have 4-6 months to compost before you plant again. However, you can do it in February-March also, but be sure it is clean and free of bugs, weed seeds, and disease!
If you can find clean, finely ground-up leaves to use, they will improve your soil tilth. Dry leaves provide very little nutrition, but they also do not introduce disease, bugs, or weed seeds into the garden, so they are good to use.
Other compost and manure may have somewhat more nutritional value, but the risk is much higher that you will introduce one or more of the negative elements into your garden. Therefore, use extreme caution when putting these materials into the garden.
Please understand that we are not opposed to the use of organic materials - on the contrary we use them ourselves. We are, however, very careful about what we use, and where it comes from.
We do promise folks that you will have "a great garden in any soil," even without amending your soil, when you follow the principles and procedures taught on the website and in Dr. M's books. This requires that you feed your plants very small amounts of natural mineral nutrients during the plants' peak growing times. This eliminates guesswork, and assures that your plants are really healthy.
Your poor soil will grow great plants if you will just make level, ridged beds as the website and books teach, and water, weed, and feed as instructed. We can grow a great garden even in a gravel pit, or in blow sand. As a matter of fact good friends in Santa Clara, Utah did just that, and their neighbors were amazed. The pictorial evidence is in the Yahoo Groups Mittleider Method Gardening Group at http://ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/MittleiderMethodGardening/photos/browse/970e
Fall is the best time to put materials into your garden, because they have 4-6 months to compost before you plant again. However, you can do it in February-March also, but be sure it is clean and free of bugs, weed seeds, and disease!
If you can find clean, finely ground-up leaves to use, they will improve your soil tilth. Dry leaves provide very little nutrition, but they also do not introduce disease, bugs, or weed seeds into the garden, so they are good to use.
Other compost and manure may have somewhat more nutritional value, but the risk is much higher that you will introduce one or more of the negative elements into your garden. Therefore, use extreme caution when putting these materials into the garden.
Please understand that we are not opposed to the use of organic materials - on the contrary we use them ourselves. We are, however, very careful about what we use, and where it comes from.
We do promise folks that you will have "a great garden in any soil," even without amending your soil, when you follow the principles and procedures taught on the website and in Dr. M's books. This requires that you feed your plants very small amounts of natural mineral nutrients during the plants' peak growing times. This eliminates guesswork, and assures that your plants are really healthy.
Your poor soil will grow great plants if you will just make level, ridged beds as the website and books teach, and water, weed, and feed as instructed. We can grow a great garden even in a gravel pit, or in blow sand. As a matter of fact good friends in Santa Clara, Utah did just that, and their neighbors were amazed. The pictorial evidence is in the Yahoo Groups Mittleider Method Gardening Group at http://ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/MittleiderMethodGardening/photos/browse/970e
Tuesday, May 12, 2009
Sunday, January 11, 2009
Food for Everyone Foundation main Squidoo lens
We got as high as 32 the last few days the ranking has really slipped. Looks like I better put more work into promoting it.
Monday, November 10, 2008
Join the Food for Everyone Foundation Affiliate program
Earn 40% Selling Digital Mittleider Gardening Books – NO cost and NO inventory!
Do you have a website, a Blog, a Squidoo lens? Are you on Myspace or Youtube? Or do you have an email list of friends and family??
Join over 100,000 other people selling digital products online using Clickbank and earn 40% while helping the Non-Profit Food for Everyone Foundation teach family gardening around the world!
Step 1 – Sign up for a Clickbank account using this link http://www.howtoorganicgarden.com/new_page_9.htm
When you sign up you will create a nickname/id
Step 2 – Looking at Example 1 and 2 below – Replace the word “Steveffeo” with your Clickbank id/nickname.
Step 3 – Add this code to your Website, Blog, Squidoo lens, Myspace, Youtube, or send it to your email list and earn 40% of every sale.
The process is 100% automated by Clickbank. They handle all payments to you directly!
It is literally that easy! Just replace Steveffeo with your Clickbank id and you are making money.
You can use the code on a website, Squidoo lens, blog or via email to your friends, family or email list.
If you want to use the link in an email use option 1 for proper formatting..
Example 1
http://steveffeo.mittleider.hop.clickbank.net/
Example 2
target=”_top”>Click Here!
You can replace “Click here” with any marketing tag lines. We will be providing options in the very near future. For the time being we suggest using “Buy the Food for Everyone Foundation Gardening books – click here”
To see an example of both please check out our main Squidoo lens.
If you look at the bottom of the description (the first block of text) you will see examples of both.
http://www.squidoo.com/foodforeveryonefoundation/
To dress up your pages, and make them look like ours, you can use any of the images on either of our websites. Simply mention where it came from.
http://www.Foodforeveryone.org
http://www.Howtoorganicgarden.com
But what if I do not have a web page?
Great news! You can create a Squidoo lens free of charge and earn money, AND help the Foundation at the same time.
To create a FREE Squidoo lens and earn 40% please use the link below. This will automatically join you to the main Foundation group. I will approve all lenses that have five sections or more. Squidoo will not publish an empty lens, so please have fun with building a lens.
Tell the world about your gardening success and your opinions about the Foundation’s method of gardening.
http://www.squidoo.com/group/create_lens/Foodforeveryone?forward=true
Best of success! We look forward to having you join us.
Jim Kennard, President
Food For Everyone Foundation
www.foodforeveryone.org
Do you have a website, a Blog, a Squidoo lens? Are you on Myspace or Youtube? Or do you have an email list of friends and family??
Join over 100,000 other people selling digital products online using Clickbank and earn 40% while helping the Non-Profit Food for Everyone Foundation teach family gardening around the world!
Step 1 – Sign up for a Clickbank account using this link http://www.howtoorganicgarden.com/new_page_9.htm
When you sign up you will create a nickname/id
Step 2 – Looking at Example 1 and 2 below – Replace the word “Steveffeo” with your Clickbank id/nickname.
Step 3 – Add this code to your Website, Blog, Squidoo lens, Myspace, Youtube, or send it to your email list and earn 40% of every sale.
The process is 100% automated by Clickbank. They handle all payments to you directly!
It is literally that easy! Just replace Steveffeo with your Clickbank id and you are making money.
You can use the code on a website, Squidoo lens, blog or via email to your friends, family or email list.
If you want to use the link in an email use option 1 for proper formatting..
Example 1
http://steveffeo.mittleider.hop.clickbank.net/
Example 2
target=”_top”>Click Here!
You can replace “Click here” with any marketing tag lines. We will be providing options in the very near future. For the time being we suggest using “Buy the Food for Everyone Foundation Gardening books – click here”
To see an example of both please check out our main Squidoo lens.
If you look at the bottom of the description (the first block of text) you will see examples of both.
http://www.squidoo.com/foodforeveryonefoundation/
To dress up your pages, and make them look like ours, you can use any of the images on either of our websites. Simply mention where it came from.
http://www.Foodforeveryone.org
http://www.Howtoorganicgarden.com
But what if I do not have a web page?
Great news! You can create a Squidoo lens free of charge and earn money, AND help the Foundation at the same time.
To create a FREE Squidoo lens and earn 40% please use the link below. This will automatically join you to the main Foundation group. I will approve all lenses that have five sections or more. Squidoo will not publish an empty lens, so please have fun with building a lens.
Tell the world about your gardening success and your opinions about the Foundation’s method of gardening.
http://www.squidoo.com/group/create_lens/Foodforeveryone?forward=true
Best of success! We look forward to having you join us.
Jim Kennard, President
Food For Everyone Foundation
www.foodforeveryone.org
Sunday, February 24, 2008
Growing rice with the Mittleider method
Do you have any experience, or did Mr Mittleider have any experience
using his system to grow rice? Rice is cultivated in what is
essentially a huge grow bed,(often called a rice paddy) which is
flooded with water, rice seedlings are then planted in the flooded
paddy. Any thoughts on using the Mittleider system to increase yields?
I will be living in Thailand, and hope to find ways to apply the
Mittleider method to traditional gardening and farming techniques. If
you have some fertilizer formulas, can compute using a per acre
formula? I can then convert to the Thai unit of area the "rai" equal
to .396 acres. Thank you.
Ray and Group:
Dr. Mittleider did indeed have experience growing rice. Instead of transplanting seedlings in "wet paddy" growing he broadcast seed into a dry paddy and used the fertilizers with only 3 applications. He increased yields 5 times.
To get the per-acre amount of fertilizer you want to have 110# of actual nitrogen, 60# of actual phosphate, and 110# of Potash.
using his system to grow rice? Rice is cultivated in what is
essentially a huge grow bed,(often called a rice paddy) which is
flooded with water, rice seedlings are then planted in the flooded
paddy. Any thoughts on using the Mittleider system to increase yields?
I will be living in Thailand, and hope to find ways to apply the
Mittleider method to traditional gardening and farming techniques. If
you have some fertilizer formulas, can compute using a per acre
formula? I can then convert to the Thai unit of area the "rai" equal
to .396 acres. Thank you.
Ray and Group:
Dr. Mittleider did indeed have experience growing rice. Instead of transplanting seedlings in "wet paddy" growing he broadcast seed into a dry paddy and used the fertilizers with only 3 applications. He increased yields 5 times.
To get the per-acre amount of fertilizer you want to have 110# of actual nitrogen, 60# of actual phosphate, and 110# of Potash.
Saturday, December 15, 2007
How to help the Food for Everyone Foundation
1. Donate a few dollars
2. Start a Squidoo lens about the Foundation
3. Start a blog abpout FFEF
4. Send an email to your friends tell them about FFEF
5. Join the FFEF affilaite program
6. Tell a local teacher about FFEF
7. Add us to your web 2.0 contact lists.
8 Book mark our main site
9. Digg us
10. Stumble FFEF
2. Start a Squidoo lens about the Foundation
3. Start a blog abpout FFEF
4. Send an email to your friends tell them about FFEF
5. Join the FFEF affilaite program
6. Tell a local teacher about FFEF
7. Add us to your web 2.0 contact lists.
8 Book mark our main site
9. Digg us
10. Stumble FFEF
Tuesday, November 27, 2007
Monday, May 7, 2007
Whats your Mittleider garden going to be
Well the frost in upstate NY have been causing major problems with my Tomatoes and Peppers. I made an ad hock row cover with clear plastic and 5 gallon pails. I hope they survive there is supposed to be frost again tonight. YUCK.
I am going to plant some more Peppers and Tomatoes tonight indoors to make sure, just incase the ones in the garden cant take the cold tonight.
Atleast all my soilbeds are done so If I do have to replant I will be all set.
I am going to plant some more Peppers and Tomatoes tonight indoors to make sure, just incase the ones in the garden cant take the cold tonight.
Atleast all my soilbeds are done so If I do have to replant I will be all set.
Sunday, April 15, 2007
Buy the Food for Everyone digital products
We setup a seperate page for people who only want to pay with
Paypal
Food for Everyone Foundation digital products
Paypal
Food for Everyone Foundation digital products
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